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Frequently Asked Questions About Cigars
Anatomy
of a cigar
What
is a "premium" cigar?
What
is a "Puro"?
What
are the basic shapes of premium cigars?
What
do the two numbers mean when applied to cigar sizes?
Do
the opposite ends of the cigar have different names?
Does
the cigar's name indicate its dimension?
How
do I know what size is right for me?
What
do the cigar ratings mean?
Cigar Smoking and Etiquette
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| Technical
Aspects |
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| Storage Methods |
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| Cigar Accessories |
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| Cigar Anatomy |
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| It
always helps to know which end is which and what everything
is called. The majority of cigars come with one open end
(the foot) which is the end that you will light. The other
end (the head) is the end that you must cut, and through
which you will draw air and delicious smoke. To make life
easier, the band is most often placed near the head.
Cigar Parts
A cigar is composed of three types of tobacco; the Filler
(the guts), the Binder (which holds the filler together)
and the Wrapper (which holds everything together).
The Filler
The filler can be from any part of the tobacco plant.
The top of the plant usually produces the strongest
flavor, while the bottom produces the tobacco with the
best burning properties. Most cigars have blended fillers
(fillers from varying parts of the plant and varying
sources) to achieve the correct taste and burning qualities.
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| What
is a "premium" cigar? |
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to Top |
| The
term "premium", when applied to cigars, indicates that
it is not a machine made, mass market style of cigar.
In order to be classified as such, it will have the following
characteristics: Premium cigars are constructed from three
parts; The filler, the binder, and the wrapper. The filler
is the interior of the cigar. When a cigar is examined
from the open end, the filler can be seen as the leaves
that are twisted in spirals within the center of the cigar.
When the term "long filler" is used, it means that the
filler was constructed from full leaves. These leaves
are picked, stored, and aged intact, and are obviously
handled with great care. Rolling long filler cigars takes
great skill to insure that it burns evenly and smoothly.
The second type of filler is short filler. Short filler
consists of loose clippings of leaves that are leftover
from the long filler production, or leaves that broke
anywhere along the cultivation process. Premium short
filler cigars are made from 100% tobacco leaves, but just
not the same leaf from end to end. Short filler cigars
are still technically considered to be "premium", so long
as the cigar is still completely hand made, and is constructed
only from pure, untreated or unhomogenized tobacco. The
next part of the cigar consists of several layers of leaves
that encircle the spirals of filler. These layers are
termed "binder". As the name implies, it forms the filler
into a circular shape, so that the next, and final component,
the wrapper, can be applied.
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| What
is a "Puro"? |
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| A
puro is a cigar that was made entirely from the tobaccos
of one county. An example of the most well known Puros
are Cuban cigars. In Cuba, the filler, binder, and wrapper
is all grown in Cuba. Cigar manufacturers who make Puros
consider it a great honor to be able to achieve a such
a level of sufficiency, as it gives them more control
over the consistency and quality of the finished product.
The difficulty in acquiring the necessary native ingredients
in producing a puro make them very rare indeed. Other
than Cuban cigars, which are unavailable in the American
market, there are only a handful of Puros out there. The
Breton Corojo Vintage, Corojo2000, and the Opus X are
all excellent quality Dominican Puros.
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| What
are the basic shapes of premium cigars? |
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| There
are two shapes of cigars, Parejos and Figurados. A Parejos
is a straight sided cigar. A Figurado is an exotic, irregular
shape.
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| What
do the two numbers mean when applied to cigar sizes? |
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| They
are the length and ring gauge (diameter). The length is
measured in inches. The ring gauge is measured in units
of 1/64th's of an inch. For example, a cigar that is called
"8 x 48" is 8 inches long and 48/64ths of an inch in diameter.
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| Do
the opposite ends of the cigar have different names? |
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| Yes.
The end you cut and smoke though is the "cap". The end
you light is called a "tuck" or "foot".
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| Does
the cigar's name indicate its dimension? |
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Quite
often they do. There are some basic shapes that fall within
certain size parameters. These shapes are given names,
so that there is some degree of universality in the industry.
These descriptive dimensions are approximate, but here
are some guidelines: Short is less than 5.5 inches. Long
is greater than 6.5 inches. Thin is less than 42 ring
size. Thick is greater than 47 ring. The group below are
the most common shapes.
- Robusto:
Short and thick
- Lonsdale:
Thin and long
- Corona:
Medium length and medium
gauge
- Churchill:
Long and thick
- Cigarillo:
Short and thin
Please note that these
are only generic shape names. For example, a Robusto
from one brand may have slightly different dimensions
than a Robusto from another brand.
There are other shapes
that fall between and around these basics:
- Toro:
Somewhere between Robusto
and Churchill.
- Panatela:
A skinny Lonsdale.
- Rothchild:
Somewhere between a Robusto
and a Corona.
- Presidente:
Either a little larger
or smaller than a Churchill
Manufacturers can also
add one of these common adjectives to the name. They
can help you to envision the size. Gorda, Grande, Gran,
Larga, Extra, Doble, or Double always mean they are
adding on to the size. Petite, Slim, Finos, or Demi
indicate some sort of reduction to the size. For example
a "Corona Grande" is a long Corona, and would be close
to a Lonsdale.
On top of all this we will
now add the Figurados. Here are the basic definitions.
Note, you will find more disparity here among brands
than you can imagine. When you are dealing with Parejos,
you can be positive that Robustos from different brands
will always resemble each other to some degree. However,
with Figurados, almost anything goes. One company's
Torpedo will be another's Pyramid or Perfecto. These
are the most common descriptions for the shape names
on today's market. Remember, all dimensions described
are approximations.
- Torpedo:
The cap is a sharp point,
the foot is open. The shape does not begin to taper
until the last 2 inches near the cap. The foot will
measure between 46 to 54 in ring size. The length
can range from 5 to 7 inches.
- Piramide:
The cap is round, the
foot is open. The cigar will immediately taper from
the foot right down to the cap. For this reason, many
Piramides will be described with two ring sizes. For
example, 7 x 36-50. This means that it is a seven
inch cigar, and the tuck is 50 ring, and it drops
down to 36 by the time it reaches the cap.
- Triangulo:
Similar to a Piramide,
but the cap is pointed.
- Belicoso:
Similar to a torpedo,
but usually a little shorter. Also, the taper will
occur even more quickly than the torpedo, typically
occurring within the last 3/4" near the cap.
- Perfecto:
The perfecto will have
both ends closed. The cap can be round or pointed.
The tuck is typically tapered to the width of a cigarette.
On some brands, you light the foot as is, and with
others, if it is more than 3/8", you clip off a bit
to expose the filler. The sides can be straight, or
there can be a bulge in the first half of the cigar
near the foot. The length of a perfecto can vary from
4-8"
- Diadema:
Traditionally, this is
a giant perfecto, measuring at least 8" long. However,
it is can be used to name any huge scale version of
the Figurados described above.
- Culebra:
Three panetelas twisted
around each other and held together with either ribbon
or a large cigar band. The segments of a traditional
Culebra will be composed of all ligero filler, not
mild seco and volado fillers of a regular Panetela.
You must separate them before smoking. Do not attempt
to straighten out the wavy shape. Smoke them in the
curved way that they have been cured.
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| How
do I know what size is right for me? |
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| You
should pick a cigar for the amount of time you have available
to smoke. If you are at a sporting event or on a golf
course, choose a large cigar that will last for a long
time. If you are in a cigar friendly restaurant and you
want to have a nice after dinner smoke, (but don't want
to stay there all night) choose one that will last about
30-40 minutes. These are just some examples. As you experiment
with different sizes you will find one that you are most
comfortable with.
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| What
do the cigar ratings mean? |
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| We
use the ratings from one of the most trusted sources,
Cigar Aficionado.
Cigar Aficionado's ratings
are scored on the 100-point scale:
95-100 - classic
90- 94 - outstanding
80-89 - very good to excellent
70-79 - average to good commercial quality
Below 70 - don't waste your money
To check out cigar ratings for yourself on their website,
Click
Here
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| How
do I open the end cap? |
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| The
most common way is with a cigar cutter. This means you
will clip the rounded end cap off. Other methods are discussed
in detail here.
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| Is
there a correct way to light a cigar? |
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| Absolutely.
Your goal is light the end as evenly as possible. When
lighting the cigar, it is best when you apply as little
of the flame to the end of the cigar as possible. This
will prevent the tobacco from getting charred, or carbonized,
and imparting an unpleasant taste unto it. To do this,
hold the flame about 2 inches away from the cigar, and
slowly draw long puffs of air through the cigar. The flame
should jump up to the cigar. With each new puff, rotate
the cigar about a quarter of a turn. Continue this for
4-5 puffs and then inspect your work. If there is a tiny
unlit spot, you can blow on it to accelerate the glowing
coal to drift over to it. Then, take one or two steady
puffs and then leave the cigar alone for at least 2 minutes,
as the first 1/8th to 3/16th of ash builds. You have laid
the foundation of a cigar that will burn perfectly.
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| How
come my cigar does not always burn evenly? |
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| Most
uneven burns are a result of poor lighting technique.
Therefore, patience should be applied during the lighting
to insure that the cigar burns properly, and does not
"tunnel" or "canoe". Your cigar is tunneling when the
inner filler is burning down, and the outer layers, including
the wrapper and binder, are still unlit. This will taste
unpleasant, as you are not smoking the balanced blend.
It will ultimately go out, as the inner core suffocates
from lack of air. If your cigar tunnels you can try to
fix it by using your cutter and clipping down the unburned
exterior and then try to relight the cigar. A problem
that is more common than tunneling is canoeing. This is
when your cigar is imitating a canoe, by one half burning
slower than the other. It can be caused by improperly
lighting the cigar, or by smoking too quickly, puffing
away like mad. The best way to fix this is to leave the
cigar alone and let the slow side catch up as soon as
you notice it is happening. The sooner you "back off",
the sooner the cigar will even up. If you ignore it, it
will get more and more pronounced. I do not recommend
"flash burning" the slow half, as it will usually leave
a burning taste on the rest of the cigar as you smoke
it. Both of these syndromes can be prevented by correctly
lighting the cigar. Very windy conditions can also make
the cigar canoe to tunnel. Unfortunately, this is out
of your control and is no mark against your ignition techniques.
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| Can
I use any type of flame? |
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| The
goal is to use a flame that will impart as few impurities
into the cigar as possible. The historical method was
to use a splint of cedar, known as a "spill", to light
the cigar. More practical and handy are wooden matches
or mechanical lighters that use butane, both of which
burn clean. Paper matches are undesirable because they
have two elements that can taint the taste of the cigar.
First, many paper matches are dyed with a pigment. Second,
they are often treated with an accelerant chemical, which
you can see as it boils off the first 1/4" of the match
right after it is struck. By the time this chemical has
boiled off, the match is too short to light the cigar.
When using wooden matches, I recommend that you use two
matches at once, spread approximately 1/4" apart. This
will create a flame broad enough to light the whole end
in one attempt. Rarely can you get the entire cigar lit
with just one match, and if you need to start a second
match you have already started the cigar off on an uneven
burn. Other than a thin cedar spill, these are the only
two sources for flame that I would advise. Never use a
candle, or a lighter that used any fuel other than butane.
And certainly never use a gas stove or stick your head
into a campfire, as you risk lighting you hair up when
you lean over it.
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| Do
I remove the ring? |
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| Removing
the ring may damage the cigar, as the adhesive used to
attach it is often attached to the cigar as well. It can
be removed gently once the coal has burned down near it,
as the heat will loosen it. It should be mentioned that
in England and Europe it is considered vulgar to leave
the ring on the cigar. There, proper etiquette dictates
that gentlemen do not show off whatever prestigious brand
they are smoking, and they sit around smoking "naked"
cigars. However, following this decorum risks tearing
the wrapper. At the risk of insulting any European smokers
in the room, I would rather keep my wrapper untorn.
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| When
do I tap the ash? |
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| The
ash is very sturdy and will hold up at least 3/4" of an
inch, or more. Therefore, you should not be so concerned
as to look for the ashtray after every puff, as you can
damage the cigar by constantly trying to tap off a fresh
ash. It can be easily knocked off about every 1/2" or
so.
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| How
far down can I smoke the cigar? |
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| You
can smoke a cigar as far down as long you still enjoy
it. A great cigar will tempt you to burn your finger tips
trying to get that last puff. When you have finished the
cigar, drop it into the ashtray and let it burn itself
out. Do not crush it down, as the exploded butt will smell
terrible.
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| How
many different types of tobacco are there? |
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| There
are literally hundreds of strains of tobacco plants. They
are grown on almost every continent, although only a handful
are suitable for premium cigar production. Most of these
are Cuban seed varieties that have been cultivated in
other countries. The leaves from most Cuban seed varieties
often reach 14-18 inches in length.
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| How
many different tobaccos are used in a premium cigar? |
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| Typically,
4-6 types are blended together. The wrapper and binder
are the first 2. The rest are fillers.
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| What
does Ligero, Seco, and Volado mean? |
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| These
are the classifications of leaf types that a single plant,
regardless of its variety, will yield. Every tobacco plant
for cigar applications has these three leaf types. Each
is from a different part of the plant. Every cigar should
have some combination of these leaves to burn correctly.
The "ligero" leaves (pronounced lee-hair-oh) are taken
from the top third of the plant. These offer the strength
to the cigar's flavor. The leaves from the middle third
of the plant are called "seco" (pronounced say-ko). These
have a mild flavor, and contribute to overall aroma. Finally,
at the bottom third of the plant, are the "volado" leaves.
These have little flavor, but are a necessary part of
the blend due to their excellent burning characteristics.
Ligero and seco leaves do not burn very well and need
the help of the volado leaf to keep the cigar lit and
burning smoothly. When a manufacturer is creating a blend,
they will take some combination of these classifications,
from various strains of plants, to produce the flavor
they prefer.
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| What
does Corojo mean? |
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| Corojo
(pronounced: kawr-oh-ho) is the name given to a specific
variety of tobacco plant that was originally developed
in the Vuelta Abajo Valley in Cuba. It is named after
the plantation that first grew it, called El Corojo Vega.
The leaf's thin, oily texture, along with its small thin
veins, make it the pinnacle for a wrapper leaf on the
highest rated of the Cuban brands. This farm had a unique
combination of mineral content in the soil, irrigation,
drainage, and exposure that allowed the plant to thrive.
The plant is very temperamental and delicate, and only
survived when planted in the valley of its origin. Most
attempts to relocate the seeds to other tobacco growing
regions in both Cuba and other Caribbean nations are met
with crop failure. Within the last 5 or 6 years, there
have been only two growers, both in a valley in Bonao,
Dominican Republic, who have been able to harvest successful
crops of the Corojo variety. The characteristics of this
valley duplicate those of the original Cuban plantation.
The wrappers cultivated from this plant are often designated
as "rosado" shade, which is a very rare, reddish tint.
|
| What
is Colorado? |
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| Colorado
is a color of wrapper that is in the medium brown color
spectrum. The most common variation is "Colorado Maduro",
which is typically grown in Indonesia, and is sometimes
termed "Sumatra". Another area that grows this shade of
wrapper is Cameroon.
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| What
is Maduro? |
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| Maduro,
directly translated from Spanish, means "mature" or "ripe".
On a cigar, it applies to the wrapper leaf that is medium
or dark brown. The two most common styles of maduro are
Colorado (medium brown), and Oscuro (dark brown, almost
black). There are several methods used to achieve these
shades, depending on the hybrid of plant. Some are fermented
for longer periods of time, while others are merely left
on the plant unpicked until the very end of the plant's
annual growing cycle. Most maduro shaded wrappers are
grown in Indonesia, Brazil, Mexico, and Cameroon.
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| What
does "shade grown" or "sungrown" mean? |
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| These
are terms applied to the growing style of wrapper leaves.
Shade grown means that tapadas, which are large white
fabric sheets, similar to cheesecloth, are suspended 6-10
feet above the entire crop to shield the leaves from direct
exposure to sunlight. The opposite of this is to allow
the leaves to grow without any protection, directly in
the sunlight. The implementation of either procedure will
yield completely different wrappers, as the exposure to
the sun will affect the amount of sugars and oils the
plant produces, the thickness of the veins in the leaf,
and ultimately, its color. A common shade grown wrapper
color is of a "Claro" color. This has a pale "coffee with
cream" color. Many companies will often alternatively
refer to this shade as "natural". A common sun grown wrapper
color is "Maduro", which has a hue of dark or black coffee.
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| Are
leaves really grown in Connecticut? |
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|
Absolutely. The Connecticut
River Valley region, located in the northeast corner
of the state, and extending into lower Massachusetts,
grows much of the "Claro" wrappers that we see on cigars.
The last few years have proven that Ecuador and the
Dominican Republic can produce a similarly colored wrapper
leaf. This has been a salvation to the industry, as
this diversification minimizes the impact of the "blue
mold" blight that has ruined entire Connecticut crops
in past years. Another type of Connecticut wrapper is
the Broadleaf variety. This will have a darker, maduro
shade to it.
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| Why
are wrapper leaves so special? |
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| The
wrapper is a very delicate leaf, and is only one layer
thick around the cigar. It contributes a large percentage
to the overall flavor of the cigar. Wrapper leaves can
be grown in many places on the globe, and each variety
contributes its own characteristics towards the cigar's
flavor. A wrapper leaf is evaluated on the thinness of
its veins, its oily sheen, its even coloring, and most
importantly, its unblemished appearance. In order to achieve
and maintain these desired characteristics, the leaves
are often carefully and skillfully handled several hundred
times from picking, curing, stripping, aging, and rolling.
Binder leaves are often wrapper leaves that have been
rejected due to some sort of cosmetic imperfection.
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| How
many wrapper colors are there? |
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|
There are about a dozen
or so, all variations of these basic ones, listed from
lightest to darkest:
Candela (which is still green), Double Claro, Claro,
Colorado, Colorado Maduro, Colorado Rosado, Maduro,
and Oscuro.
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| How
is tobacco cured? |
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| Curing
tobacco is a sensitive process that depends on techniques
and traditions that are hundreds of years old. Following
the harvest, tobacco is removed from the fields and placed
in large bulk piles within a curing shed. This shed will
have several barn doors in the front and rear, and many
doorways running along the sides. There are also vents
on the upper portions of the structure. The purpose of
all these openings is to control the interior temperature
and humidity. By opening or closing the apertures, workers
are able to counterbalance the effect of wind and sun
exposure on the structure. Each bulk is about the size
of a Volkswagen Beetle. Inside these piles, heat is created
as a by-product of the chemical reactions taking place.
The core temperature is monitored daily and the piles
are rotated inside out frequently to prevent the raw tobacco
from cooking. This part of the fermentation is referred
to as "sweating". These bulks may be turned many times
during the following months until this stage is complete.
It is during this sweating process that the tobacco releases
ammonia and other undesirables elements. The tobacco is
then put into rectangular bails, each about 150 pounds,
and stored for a minimum of one year. Many producers will
store it for much longer periods of 3-5 years. After this
curing and aging period, the tobacco is judged suitable
and shipped to the fabrica for rolling.
|
| Why
do premium cigars need to be kept in a humidor? |
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| A
premium cigar, by definition, is handmade and in most
cases, constructed with long-filler tobacco. It is 100%
pure tobacco leaves throughout its construction. Unlike
cigarettes or machine made cigars, they have no chemicals
that are added that will keep them from drying out. Therefore,
they must be stored at the correct humidity level to preserve
its moisture content, or they will dry out and crumble.
|
| What
are characteristics of a good humidor? |
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| There
are several key points that all good humidors share. It
is important that you chose the right one in order to
protect your precious and delicate cigars. First, is the
interior lining. It should be made of Spanish cedar. A
very small percentage of humidors on the market use a
mahogany interior as an acceptable alternative. The next
important feature to look for is the seal between the
lid and the rim of the box. It should be a tight seal,
but it can not be purely airtight. Lids that are very
heavy, relative to the rest of the box, help to promote
a sufficient seal. An indicator of a good seal is when
the lid is closed you should feel / hear a small whoosh.
Another critical element to look at is the hinges on the
lid. They must be heavy duty, and be secured with good
anchoring. Often, as described earlier, the lids can be
very heavy, and the hinging must be sturdy enough to support
the stress that a heavy lid will put on them. Often, people
will say that the most critical part of a humidor is the
humidification element. However, I disagree. It is actually
the only component than can actually be replaced, therefore,
it is more important to have good seals and hinges, for
without them, even the best humidification element will
not keep the cigars in peak condition. These key features
are what make a humidor.
|
| What
are some other features that a humidor can have? |
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| There
are several "options" that your humidor can have. For
example, some have locks, which would prevent people in
your office or home from snatching your stash without
your permission. Other humidors have handles. These not
only look elegant, but will aid you when you are moving
the humidor from your beach house back to your winter
home. Other important options that a humidor can have
is shelves and dividers. These help you organize your
cigars and keep different brands separated.
|
| What
are the do's and don't when holding or feeling a cigar? |
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| Premium
cigars are delicate and require care when handling. They
can be damaged by squeezing, pinching, or dropping them.
The two ends are the most susceptible to damage. The rounded,
or closed end (nearest to the cigar band), is called a
cap. The cap can be split if it is squeezed too tightly.
The best place to hold a cigar is anywhere in its middle
section, at least 1 inch away from the ends.
|
| How
should premium cigars be stored? |
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| The
cigars must be kept at 70-72% humidity level to prevent
them from drying out. This is best achieved by keeping
them in a humidor. The humidor should have a Spanish cedar
lining, to enhance the aroma and promote the aging of
the cigar. If you are on a budget, there are cigar jars,
made of glass, that will do an adequate job. If you are
really in a pinch you can use Tupperware, or a similar
style food storage container. All of these storage devices
must have a humidification element that releases moisture
into the storage chamber.
|
| Must
I use distilled water in my humidification element? |
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| Yes.
Other than the initial charge of humidor solution, use
only distilled water. Tap water and bottled spring water
contain minerals that will collect and slowly "cake-up"
on both the device and the interior of the humidor. These
minerals turn into a whitish/tan crust, and eventually,
will clog the pores of the humidification device and destroy
the effectiveness of the humidor. Additionally, some tap
waters often have a slight odor, that will taint the aroma
of the cigars when compounded over months or years.
|
| What
is Humidor Solution? |
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to Top |
Humidor
Solution, or Activator Solution as it is sometime called,
is a 50/50 mix of distilled water and propylene glycol.
Propylene glycol is a colorless innocuous liquid that
has two favorable characteristics for the use in humidors.
First of all the formation of mold as well as bacteria
is actively prevented. Secondly, propylene glycol forms
a thin layer on the surface of the humidifier, which absorbs
humidity at humidity levels of over 70% humidity and which
supplies humidity at humidity of less than 70%. This way
the humidifier becomes a self-adjusting humidifier and
will automatically stabilize the humidity level at an
optimum level of approx. 70%.
As distilled water evaporates substantially faster than
the propylene glycol part, the humidor should be refilled
exclusively with distilled water. This special propylene
glycol solution should only be applied when setting up
your new humidor or when the humidity level in the humidor
suddenly drops. Depending on the outside temperature this
is usually once every 3-6 months.
Under no circumstances should the solution be used more
frequently and never exclusively. If you do, the humidifier
will become saturated with propylene glycol solution and
will not be able to absorb more water and thus the humidifier
becomes useless.
|
| Is
my humidor supposed to be airtight? |
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| No.
The exchange of air is critical to the storage of cigars,
as it will prevent mold growth. A completely airtight
system, kept at 72% humidity, would grow mold very quickly
and destroy the cigars. High quality wooden humidors,
even with seemingly airtight seals, have an exchange of
air because they are made of wood, which is a porous material.
However, a poorly made one will have a seal that is too
loose and allow the moisture to escape rapidly, thus resulting
in dried out cigars. If you chose to keep your cigars
in Tupperware or glass jars, it is critical that you open
them at least once a week to refresh the air.
|
| How
do I set up my humidor for the first time? |
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When
most people get their new humidor home, they are anxious
to fill it up with their collection of smokes. If you
do this without first re-humidifying the wood, you may
ruin your cigars. Why? The wood has not had a chance to
reach its equilibrium. So when you put your cigars in,
the wood will absorb their moisture and you will be left
with dry useless cigars. Not exactly the reason you bought
a humidor, huh? To solve this problem, all humidors should
be re-humidified before their first use.
Re-humidifying your humidor is easy, just follow these
simple steps:
Place a shallow container filled with distilled water
or activator solution in the bottom of the humidor
Place calibrated hygrometer inside humidor
Charge your humidification device
Place humidification device inside humidor
You have to check the relative humidity every day. Depending
on a number of factors this can take a few days to a few
weeks. When you get in the 70 range it is safe to store
you smokes inside. As long as you constantly recharge
your humidification device you will never have to wait
to store your cigars again.
Some people suggest wiping
down the inside of the humidor with a moist cloth to
speed up the process. NEVER DO THIS! Under no circumstances
do you want to get the wood wet as that may cause it
to warp or crack, thus rendering the humidor useless.
|
| What
happens to a cigar that was left out of the humidor? |
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to Top |
| The
answer depends on the environment that the cigar was exposed
to and what protection the cigar had. Cigars often come
with an individual plastic sleeve that surrounds them.
This plastic protects the cigar from drying out for short
periods of time. For example, on the ride home from a
cigar store. A cigar with this sleeve that has been out
of the humidor for a few hours, or even a day, will be
not be drastically affected by the change in humidity.
However, without this sleeve, the cigar, under low humidity
conditions, can be ruined in as little as 45 minutes.
These guidelines are only approximations, and it is strongly
recommended that you protect a cigar by keeping it in
a plastic bag until you can get it to the humidor. Do
not tempt the fates.
|
| What
if the cigar has been left unhumidified for longer than
a day? For example, say a few days, a week, or even a
month? |
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to Top |
| After
a day or so, the cigar will begin to dry out. It can be
restored by putting it back in the humidor and leaving
it untouched. It will revive itself over time. Generally,
it takes about 2-3 times longer for a cigar to regain
its moistness as it did to lose it. For example, if a
cigar was out of a humidor for 2 days, it may take 4,
5, or 6 days to recover, depending on the humidity of
the environment it was exposed to. When attempting to
revive the cigar in a humidor, it should put it as far
away from the humidification device as you possible. Leave
it undisturbed for as long as you can, and then you can
slowly move it closer, until you deem it in a smokeable
condition. It is most important to handle the dry cigar
very gently. Remember, it is merely a leaf. If pinched,
squeezed or dropped on the floor, its wrapper leaf may
flake, crack, or split. Very little can be done to save
it once this happens.
|
| Can
a dry cigar be dipped in water, sprayed with misted water,
or put into a steamy bathroom to speed up its recovery? |
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to Top |
| Never.
The cigar filler will burst through the outer wrapper
leaf if the humidity changes this rapidly. The only procedure
known to work is for it to reabsorb the moisture of the
humidor very slowly.
|
| How
are cigars protected during shipping? Why don't they dry
out if it takes more than a day to transport them? |
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to Top |
| The
cigars are protected from humidity changes during shipping
because they are bulk wrapped in protective layers of
plastic, which retards the moisture's escape.
|
| Is
temperature control an issue? Can they be stored in a
refrigerator, third floor attic or a basement? |
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to Top |
| Temperature
is only a factor in the extremes. Too much heat (sustained
above 80 degrees for 3-4 days or longer) may invite a
beetle infestation. This is the same type of bug that
would invade pasta, cereal, raisins, and breads. Great
care must be taken to prevent the cigars from being placed
near a heat source, where this infestation is invited.
On the other side of the spectrum, too much cold will
dry out the cigars. Cold air is devoid of humidity and
pulls moisture out of things that have it. This is why
lips get chapped and skin dries out in the winter months.
The same holds true for the cigars. Any home or office
that maintains a temperature control between 60 and 75
degrees provides a suitable environment for cigars. The
colder the room is, the more frequent the humidification
device will need to be recharged with water. Storing cigars
in the fridge or freezer is not recommended for two reasons.
First, you must use a completely airtight container to
prevent them from drying out. If the seal fails, or you
accidentally do not tighten it completely, you have sentenced
the cigars to a merciless death. Secondly, even if you
have a good seal, the cold temperature will suspend the
maturing and aging of the cigar, which although is not
harmful, is not productive.
|
| Should
I remove the plastic sleeves when I put the cigars into
my humidor? |
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to Top |
| In
general, if you are "laying down" the cigars to age for
any period of time, you should take the sleeves off and
allow the cigars to lay next to each other. They will
pick up the natural aroma of the Spanish cedar, which
will make them age better. I only leave the sleeve on
if I know the cigar will be "moving out" quickly, and
I want it to be protected on its next journey.
|
| Why
do experts recommend aging cigars in a humidor before
they smoke them? |
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to Top |
| Seasoned
cigar smokers feel that aged cigars taste better. The
long term exposure to the Spanish cedar enhances the flavor
of the cigar. Also, many cigars, usually of the stronger
variety, will improve, as the oils bloom through to the
surface of the wrapper. Many cigars are just fine when
you buy them, and it is not a hard and fast rule that
all cigars should be aged. However, all cigars will benefit
from at least a few weeks or months in your personal humidor.
If you plan on laying down the cigar for a long period,
separate different brands with cedar dividers or the cedar
sheets that often come in the boxes. This will prevent
the cigars from tainting each other with their distinct
aromas.
|
| What
does Bloom mean? |
Back
to Top |
| Bloom
is a grayish fuzz that can appear on a well aged cigar.
It is not mold, and it is completely harmless. It is a
residue from the fermenting oils within the cigar, and
is indicative that you have ideal storage conditions.
You can identify it as bloom if it easily wipes off if
you brush it gently with your finger. If you can not easily
remove it, and it is more of a white color, it is probably
mold.
|
| What
causes mold? What do I do if I see it? |
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to Top |
| Mold
will grow if the humidor is too moist. You must always
be conscious of how much water you are adding to the humidification
device. Mold will not grow quickly, so there are 2 signs
that you can look for that will indicate that you are
heading in a bad direction. The first indicator is damp,
soggy cigars. These will be hard to smoke, and may even
hiss or burst as you smoke them. The second sign is a
foul, musty odor that greets you when you open the humidor.
If you notice either of these symptoms you should cut
back on the amount of water you are adding to the element,
regardless of what your hygrometer (if you have one) says.
It is probably not calibrated and is giving a false reading.
If you spot mold on a cigar remove it immediately from
the humidor, as it will spread to others.
|
| What
is the Tobacco Beetle? |
Back
to Top |
| The
dreaded beetle is a tiny little bug that will infest tobacco.
You may see the beetle, about the size of a large grain
of sand, crawling around your precious stogies. Often,
though, you may not see the actual beetle, as it can crawl
within any one of your smokes and hide undetected. However,
there are two telltale signs that you have been infested.
The first, is that you will notice that small holes have
been bored through the cigars. These holes are about the
same size as if you punctured the cigar with the end of
a paperclip. The second signature is the nasty bug will
leave piles of small charcoal colored sand in the humidor.
This is beetle excrement. This stuff is often accumulated
inside the cigar too, and if smoked, will leave a harsh
bitter taste in your mouth. The burning aroma will also
be very unpleasant. Your spouse or roommates will perceptively
remark, "what the hell are you smoking, s...?" Unfortunately,
they will have nailed it right on the head.
|
| How
did the Tobacco Beetle get into my humidor? |
Back
to Top |
| The
beetle has been hatched from eggs that came hidden on
one of your cigars. They can hatch whenever the ambient
temperature of the cigars rises above 80 degrees and is
sustained for a few days. These extremely tiny eggs were
laid on the leaves while the plant was still in the fields.
They are undetectable, and therefore, unremovable during
the any part of the processing and handling. These eggs
may exist within every cigar in your collection, or none
at all. The guilty cigar can be the most expensive prestigious
brand you own, or the cheapest. The bug is not brand conscious
or prejudiced, all cigars taste good to the beetle.
|
| What
can be done to prevent the Tobacco Beetle from infesting
my stash, and what can I do if they have already stricken? |
Back
to Top |
| Fortunately,
these bugs do not like freezing cold temperatures. You
can place the cigars in the freezer for 4 days. The freezing
cold temperature will kill off all the bugs and its larvae.
However, there is a strict procedure that must be adhered
to in order to prevent the complete ruination of your
collection. First, take all the cigars and place them
in airtight plastic bags. If there is even the slightest
gap in the seals the cigars will lose all humidity and
be destroyed. I repeat this procedure twice more, so that
the cigars are protected by three layers of plastic. Place
the package in the freezer and leave it there for 4 days.
Meanwhile, you can thoroughly wipe down the inside of
the humidor (using distilled water, of course). Make sure
there are no little critters hiding in the corner. Once
the 4 days have passed, take the package out of the freezer
and place it in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Be very
careful when handling the package, as the cigars will
be very brittle. After this time in the fridge, take them
out and let them warm up to room temperature. This will
take at least 4-6 hours. The larger the package, the longer
it will take to get the core to rise to room temperature.
Once this is done, you can now replace your sterilized
smokes back into the humidor.
|
| Can
I freeze all incoming cigars as a preventative measure? |
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to Top |
| Yes,
I firmly believe in this procedure. As long as the procedure
above was carefully followed and the cigars were not directly
exposed to the freezing air, you will not have a problem.
Many will scoff at the procedure, as they do not want
to be bothered with the time and effort. However, if you
have ever lost a batch of 8 year old cigars that you were
saving for just the right occasion to these merciless
creatures, the precaution is no trouble at all.
|
| How do you
know where the cigar is from, if it is made from tobaccos
of different countries? |
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to Top |
| A
cigar's country of origin is classified by where it was
rolled, regardless of where the wrapper, binder, or filler
is from. Typically, the filler tobacco is usually grown
in the same country as where the cigar is made. This is
not an absolute rule, as cigars rolled in the US, (typically,
Miami or Tampa regions) must import all of their filler.
Another exception is Honduran and Nicaraguan cigars, as
their native grown fillers are often too harsh to be used
exclusively, and are typically blended with Dominican
filler in order to produce an acceptable smoke.
|
| What
are the different tools used to cut the cap off the cigar? |
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to Top |
|
There are several methods
of cutting the cigar. Here are the most common accessories
on the market.
Cutters: A cutter
is a guillotine style device used to slice the cap off
of the cigar. It is the most common type, and is available
as a single, double, and even triple blade. The single
and double blades are the most common. Most double blades
cutters are more expensive than the single blades, but
they will last far longer, as they are self-sharpening.
Most single blade cutters are disposable, and should
be thrown away once they have stopped making a clean,
sharp cut. If you buy an expensive gold or silver single
blade cutter, be sure that the blade is replaceable,
or else you will have just spent a lot of money on a
disposable cutter.
Scissors/Clippers:
These scissor-action clippers work the same way that
the double blade cutter does. However, they are not
self sharpening, and can crush or tear the head off
the cigar if they are not kept at peak sharpness. They
do not fit comfortably in a pocket, and therefore the
lack of portability makes them attractive for home use
only.
Wedge Cutter: These
cut a "V" down the center of the cap, about an 1/8-1/4"
deep. Typically, they work very well on thin (less than
40 ring size) and tapered (torpedo shaped) cigars. They
do not give a clean cut on the thicker heads.
Punch: A punch cuts
a small circle into the cap. A well designed one can
have an ejection spring to push out the cut tobacco.
The punch does not work well on thin cigars. It works
well on thick cigars, especially the oversized ones
of 54 ring gauge or more. Often a guillotine cutter
can not accommodate these mammoths. Also, the punch
hole in these giants relieves you from having to put
the whole cigar in between your lips, which can be uncomfortable
on the jaw. Rather, you can "sip" the smoke through
the punch opening.
Poker/Piercer: This
is a pin-like rod that just pokes a hole in the cap.
It does not allow a good draw, which can cause the cigar
to burn improperly, or provide its full flavor. It also
causes a build up of bitter tars at its opening, once
you have been smoking the cigar for a while. Therefore,
a piercer is not recommended on anything larger than
a short, thin cigar.
|
| How
do I carry my cigars around when I travel or just go out
for the day? |
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to Top |
|
You must protect the cigar
in some fashion, as it will either dry out or get bruised.
Here are the options you can chose which best suits
your needs.
Tubes: A tube will
hold one cigar. If it has a good seal, it will protect
it for many days or even weeks. They can be constructed
of any type of material, ranging from plastic to platinum,
and will be priced accordingly. Some even have tiny
humidification devices built in, but this is not necessary
for short term use. The only downside to these carrying
tubes is that if your friend has one it means that he
did not bring a cigar for you.
Finger Cases: These
are cases made from either leather, metal, wood, or
plastic. They will have 2-4 "fingers" for the cigars.
The leather models are soft cases, and are most often
made from 2 telescoping pieces, that slide within each
other. They are made for specific length cigars, but
will often handle a variance of 1-1.5 inches more than
they were designed for. Sometimes they have individual
slots for each cigar, but these are not absolutely necessary.
These cases will provide several hours of protection
and are perfect for a night out. They are not heavy
and will not show a bulge by weighing down your shirt
or jacket pocket. The metal, wood, or plastic varieties
are hard cases, providing more protection from both
the elements and from being crushed. However, they are
bulky, will pull down on your clothing, if they even
fit into the pockets. They are more suited for carrying
in a briefcase or golf bag. Elaborate ones can have
miniature humidification devices, but these are only
necessary if you want to insure the cigar's freshness
for an extended period of time.
Travel Humidors:
Travel humidors are miniature humidors, complete with
a humidification element. As the name implies, they
are used when you need to take your smokes out of town.
They will hold between 4 and 20 cigars, depending on
size. They are made from wood, metal, plastic, or any
combination of these materials. As this is a short term
storage unit, a Spanish cedar lining is a nice cosmetic
touch, but not an automatic prerequisite. There are
many poorly designed models on the market, and you should
look for the following features and pitfalls when considering
the purchase. First and foremost, the seal must be a
good one. The seal on travel size humidors should either
have the same type of interlocking "lips" that a full
size one has, or a gasket of some kind. You need to
be confident that moist air is not escaping. Another
important feature is the interior protection it offers
for the cigars from being knocked around. Will they
continue to slam into each other or the walls of the
unit? Well designed ones will be built very thinly,
so that you can only stack the cigars in one or two
layers, thus minimizing the potential for damage. Good
alternatives to keeping the cigars in place have grooves
cut into them (usually molded plastic), foam egg cushions,
or straps that act as seatbelts. These features are
useful, but not completely necessary, as you can always
put some balled up bubble wrap into a half filled humidor
to prevent them from jostling. This is not exactly elegant,
but extremely functional. The last key factor when examining
a travel humidor is its strength. You want the unit
to stand up to external stress, without breaking. A
good, functional travel humidor will have all of these
features.
|
| What
makes a proper lighter for cigars? |
Back
to Top |
| There
are 2 critical features you should look for. First, the
type of fuel it uses. It must be a clean burning fuel
such as butane. Most other lighter fuels give off a chemical
or kerosene-like odor that will alter the taste of your
cigar. Secondly, the lighter must provide a large enough
flame to light the whole cigar. For some reason (probably
to conserve fuel), many disposable lighters no longer
have an adjustable flame, and only burn at about a 3/8th
inch tall. This is too small, so cigar smokers must find
one that is a designed with cigar needs in mind. The "blowtorch"
style lighters have become very popular, because they
burn at an extremely high temperature, and can do the
job from several inches away. Remember, to properly light
the cigar, you never want to actually put the foot directly
into the flame. The larger and hotter your flame is, the
further away you can keep the cigar from it and gently
draw the heat up.
|
| What
makes a good ashtray for cigars? |
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to Top |
| Ashtrays
are more important than you think, and there are three
features to look for. First, the ash container must be
large or deep enough to hold all the ash-drops that a
cigar creates. Second, it should be sturdy enough to absorb
an incidental shock without getting tipped over. Third,
it should have a groove wide enough to support a cigar
on a horizontal level. The cigar should not be tilting
down with the coal resting in the base of the tray. This
can suffocate the one side that is touching the tray and
cause the cigar might to burn unevenly. Remember, if you
are taking a puff every minute or so, you should be keeping
the cigar safe and sound in a good ashtray the rest of
the time. You can not just keep it in your hand the whole
time, as you will not be able to juggle the remote control
and your single malt.
|
| Does
my humidor need a hygrometer? |
Back
to Top |
| It
is a nice feature, but not necessary. It is always more
important to feel your cigars and judge how they are smoking
than rely on the reading of the hygrometer. Do they crackle
when you cut the cap, does the wrapper flake when you
handle them? If yes, they are too dry. Its time to add
some water. Do they smell musty, feel spongy, sizzle or
split when you smoke them? If yes, they are too moist,
and you added water too much or too often. Back off on
the water for a while. If it is alarmingly damp n there
you can stick a few cedar planks (provided from a box
of cigars-you can break off the lid or sides if you need
to) into the humidor for a few days to absorb the excess
moisture. New smokers are obsessed with the reading of
the analog hygrometer. Even a correctly calibrated analog
model has a variance of 5-10%. Therefore, you need to
let the cigars tell you if you are maintaining them properly.
Only operators of commercial storage or "walk-in" humidors
need to keep an eye on the humidity as they usually don't
touch and feel the cigars as we do. If you are completely
obsessed with having an accurate hygrometer you can go
to Radio Shack and blow 40 bucks on a digital one.
|
| How
do I calibrate my analog hygrometer? |
Back
to Top |
| Dampen
a towel (not dripping wet, but good and damp), then wrap
the hygrometer in the towel for 30 to 45 minutes. Then
unwrap it and read the humidity (quickly). If your hygrometer
is perfectly calibrated (few are) it will be reading exactly
100% humidity. Most likely, it will be reading somewhere
between 80 and 90%. That's ok - if it's reading 90%, then
you know that when it's in your humidor and reading 65,
your humidor is really at 75%. From now on you can just
make this simple adjustment and you won't have to mess
with the calibration screw.
Want to get a little more
technical? No problem. Luckily, as nature would have
it, when salt and water (NaCl and H2O for you studious
types), are in a saturated solution at equilibrium,
the resultant humidity is 75%. This gives a fantastic
reference point to calibrate our hygrometers.
Here's the procedure you
should use:
Get a bottle cap of some
sort - like the kind you might get off of a beer! Fill
it with regular table salt. Then drop a few drops of
water on the salt. DO NOT put to much water on the salt.
The salt should only be damp, and not a liquid solution.
It should be like moist sand, not like soft mud.
Then put the bottle cap
of salt and your hygrometer in a see-through, sealable
container. I like to use a large freezer bag. Seal the
freezer bag or other container. Wait several hours (about
six). The humidity inside the bag will be 75%. Compare
it to your hygrometer. You will then know exactly how
far off your hygrometer is, just like with the damp
towel test, above.
Take your hygrometer out
of the humidor and wrap it in several layers of dripping
wet paper towels. Leave it alone for 5 minutes. During
this waiting, go find your "precision" screwdriver set.
Once you have found it, go and unwrap the hygrometer
unit. If it is operating correctly, it should be registering
between 95-100. If not, take the appropriate size screwdriver
and stick it through the hole on the bottom and look
for a screw that looks like it is connected to the axis
of the dial's needle. Turn this screw to until the dial
reads 95. If you took more than 1 minute to find the
screw and turn it, then repeat the entire process, to
ensure you have calibrated it as accurately as you could.
You may have to go through this ritual every 3-6 months
to ensure as much accuracy as possible. But remember,
even a properly calibrated analog hygrometer can have
a 5-10% error rate, so always keep that in mind if you
think you have a problem with your moisture level.
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